Welcome to this asphalt shingle installation video. Here you will learn about the steps to installing asphalt shingles on your storage shed.
EXPLANATION: (show all steps for this video during the explanation)
This video describes asphalt shingle installation in 9 common steps. It is recommended to also refer to your manufacturers installation steps that are specific to the product you are using.
The first step to installing asphalt shingles is to install the drip edge on the eve edge of the roof.
Cut the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" metal drip edge using tin snips. Make a corner in each of the shed roof end pieces and extend the drip edge up the rake of the roof 2 inches.
The drip edge is set directly on top of the roof sheeting and fascia trim. It goes under the building paper to allow any moisture running down on top of the paper to be on top of the drip edge.
Nail the drip edge to the roof deck using one nail every 24 inches.
The second step is to install the 15 pound building paper. Building paper can be very slippery so great care must be taken when standing on it.
Roofing paper nails with plastic caps work best to hold the paper without ripping it. Make sure to only stand on places that are well nailed on and also try to always stand on a plastic nail head.
Line the building paper up with the drip edge and install one nail near the corner end. It can overhang the rake and be cut off squarely later.
Roll the paper out along the drip edge. Align it with the drip edge and install a second nail to hold it in place. Go back and install nails every 12 inches along the edges and 24 inches in the center.
The top edge does not need to be nailed because it will be nailed on with the next overlapping row.
Install each successive row making sure to overlap the previous row by 4 inches minimum.
The third step is to install the drip edge along the rakes of the roof.
The rake drip edge is installed on top of the building paper so that any moisture will be diverted above the paper.
Cut the building paper off flush with the fascia board before installing the drip edge.
Start at the lower end of the rake and overlap the 2 inch return from the eve drip edge that was installed earlier.
At the ridge you can either cut the drip edge to terminate at the ridge or on smaller sheds you can use one piece of drip edge to cover both sides of the roof rakes.
The fourth step is to make horizontal alignment marks on the building paper to help you keep the rows of asphalt shingles straight.
Start by measuring up from the drip edge along the roof rakes and placing a mark every 12 inches.
Use a chalk line to mark lines across the roof between the marks so you have a horizontal lines that are parallel to the eve.
The fifth step is to install a row of starter strip shingles. Starter strips are used to help the first row of shingles that sit over the drip edge to stick to the roof without having nail heads showing.
They can be purchased pre-made or you can make them from the regular shingles you purchased to install on the roof. Since most sheds only need a few starter pieces it is typically more economical to cut the starter strips from shingles.
To make a starter strip from regular shingles you will flip a shingle over and cut it lengthwise along the tar strip just above the tops of the factory made slits. Cut enough singles to run along both eves of the shed.
Cut 6 inches off the first starter strip so that the joints in the starter strip row are offset 6 inches from the row of shingles that will go directly on top of it.
The first starter strip installed will be the one that you cut 6 inches off of.
Install the starter strip upside down making sure that the edge with the tar strip is on top of the drip edge.
There should be a 3/8" overhang over both the eve and rake drip edges. Put a nail every 12 inches, just above the tar strip and 1 inch from the ends.
Continue installing starter strips along the eve drip edge. They should be 36 inches long and the ends are butted against each other.
The sixth step is to install the first six rows of shingles. Each row of shingles will be offset from the previous row by 6 inches. This prevents water from running down between shingle joints and into the shed.
Start at the same end of the eve that you started the starter strip on and install a full 36 inch long shingle over the starter strip. Maintain the same ⅜” overhang of the drip edge by lining the shingle up with the starter strip.
Each shingle gets 4 nails. One on each end and one above each of the slits. Nails are typically installed ⅝ of an inch from the top of the slits and not in the tar strip.
Continue installing the first row using full 36 inch shingles.
Cut the end of the first row before moving to the second row so you will have the reference point for the 3/8 inch overhang when you cut the next few rows of shingles that are installed.
Start the second row with a 6 inch offset from the first row and using full 36 inch long shingle.
Continue installing rows of shingles always starting with the 6 inch offset and letting the ends overhang the rake until you have 6 rows installed.
As you install each row you will visually line it up with the horizontal marks you made on the building paper to keep the rows straight.
Now return to the starting ends of the shingles and install filler pieces. Make sure that the pieces follow the same joint offset pattern as the singles previously installed on the roof.
These ends can also overhang the rake of the roof. This is a good place to use scrap ends from other parts of the roof.
On the first runs of roofing you will not have much scrap.
The seventh step is to cut the shingle ends off after the first 6 rows are installed.
On this project we got ahead of ourselves and forgot to cut the shingles after the first six rows.. But the process is the same.
You will use the straight edge of a spare shingle to line up your cut. Flip a shingle over and line the straight edge up with the 3/8" overhang of the lower shingle. On the top end you will hold the straight edge 3/8" off the drip edge.
Use your utility knife to cut along the straight edge of the shingle. It sometimes takes several passes with the knife to cut all the way through.
Now, clean the cut edges of the shingles by using a scrap piece of asphalt roofing to burnish the cut edge of the shingles that are installed on the roof.
The eighth step is to continue installing shingles in 6 row sets. The seventh row of shingles will start with a full shingle, just like the first row installed.
(The shingle ends in the image should have been cut before the seventh row was installed.)
Continue following the same 6 row pattern that you did the first time and install the shingles until you get to the roof ridge. The last row of shingles can overlap the ridge if you are not using a ridge vent. If they overlap they can be nailed to the opposite roof.
The ninth step is to install the ridge cap. The ridge cap pieces can be purchased as pre cut pieces or you can cut them from the shingles.
If you are cutting them you will flip several shingles over and cut them into thirds by cutting from the top of the slits to the edge of the shingle.
Start at the end of the shed that is most visible and fold the cut shingle over the ridge with half of the shingle running down each roof slope.
The finished gravel face of the shingle should be facing up and overhanging the drip edge like the regular shingles. The unfinished part should be facing toward the center of the shed.
Install one nail on each end of the shingle, just below the black tar line like you did the regular shingles.
All successive ridge cap pieces overlap the previous pieces similar to how you installed them on the main roof.
When you get to the end of the ridge you will cut the unfinished part of the shingle off and then nail it on directly through the finished face. Use a dap of roofing mastic on each of the nail heads to prevent leaking.
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